Welcome back to our series on researching the trends in the fashion space on the subcontinent. Last post, we had observed that there was cause for concern, but still not too much to worry about. Continuing with our opinion one of the reasons that the condition is sad as far as Indian fashion magazines are concerned is that there are not more than 10 fashion magazines in the market, as it is still evolving,
Industry experts opine that the cost of production of these magazines is very high because good quality paper and pictures is a must for them. Since they appeal to a niche readership, many publishers would not be too keen on publishing them.The country's fashion books and fashion magazines market is estimated to be nearly Rs.250 million ($8 million) and about Rs.600 million ($15 million) respectively.In Pakistan and Sri Lanka, the market is more miniscule.
However, publishers are optimistic that the country's fashion literature market will flourish manifold in the next few years, courtesy the media boom and the increased visibility of international labels that arouses reader curiosity. So if you must invest in a fashion state, this is the right time to cash in on the media and fashion boom that seeks to sweep the subcontinent. Even as I type this, the subcontinent gears itself for this year’s Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week is slated to be held at Delhi Pragati Maidan from March 12 to 16. Till then keep plugged on to Fashion Networks
Friday, February 29, 2008
Subcontinental Fashion Trends!- Part 2
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Subcontinental Fashion Trends! On the Decline?
We have so far seen the pride of the subcontinent- sarees. We shall explore the nuances of the subcontinental garment market, with regard to how open the subcontinental market is to newer fashion trends.
Indian designers may be making a mark across the world and the country may be dotted with fashion training institutes but there is a big dearth of seminal literature on the subject.
There are very few books and magazines each on fashion and very less titleson Indian textiles, handicrafts and techniques penned by domestic authors. Though India has people of the repute of Designer Ritu Kumar's Costumes and Textiles of Royal India, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla's A Celebration of Style, author Rta Kapur Chisti's Saris In India and Tradition and Beyond - Hand Crafted Indian Textiles and Hindol Sengupta's Indian Fashion are among the few on offer.
As far as fashion magazines go, there are In Touch With Fashion, Images Business of Fashion, M: Men Informed in Style, FNL: Fashion & Life Made Easy, Sports Wear, Couture India, Designer Mode and GQ to name some.
Says Namrata, a student of Fashion at NIFT, a famous institute for fashion in India "There are fewer than 10 indigenous books on fashion. But the market is flooded with international titles because we use them as reference books in most fashion institutes".
Everybody seems to be enamoured of Western fashion and wants to read about that. Even most of the subcontinental designers' collections are influenced by Western fashion. Unfortunately, when publishers approach style gurus to write a book on Indian fashion they do not show interest. So thats where a fundamental flaw is where at the root, the indigenous fashion is not developed well.
Most NIFT Faculty members reason that their approach is generic and global. Nonetheless they stress that homegrown fashion content would help students understand domestic market needs better.
"Our approach is global in which international books help a lot. But it can't be denied that if students read Indian they would understand the domestic market better because the country's weather, lifestyle and orientation are completely different," said Asha Baxi, senior professor and dean of academics, National Institute of Fashion Technology.
Sumeet Nair, executive director of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), which organises the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW), blames it on the "lack of fashion historians because of a nascent industry".
D.S. Mehta, secretary of the Sarabhai Foundation, a non-profit organisation dedicated to the promotion of science, art and literature, offers another reason for the lack of literature on the subject.
"Compared to foreign scholars, Indians are increasingly losing interest in conducting research on Indian textiles. They find it boring!" he said.
"Research work doesn't yield instant results. Moreover, it doesn't promise monetary benefits. So subjects like Indian textiles, handicrafts and techniques doesn't interest the youth," said author Rta Kapur Chisti.
For native fashion magazines the situation is no better.But still India has a lot of hope in the Fashion Market. Stay tuned to Fashion Networks to find out why next week.
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Sarees from the Subcontinent-Part 3
Welcome back! We were saying the Nivi style last week in various parts of India. Cining with the theme, The nivi drape starts with one end of the sari tucked into the waistband of the petticoat. The cloth is wrapped around the lower body once, then hand-gathered into even pleats just below the navel. The pleats are also tucked into the waistband of the petticoat They create a graceful, decorative effect which poets have likened to the petals of a flower.
After one more turn around the waist, the loose end is draped over the shoulder The loose end is called the pallu or pallav. It is draped diagonally in front of the torso. It is worn across the right hip to over the left shoulder, partly baring the midriff. The navel can be revealed or concealed by the wearer by adjusting the pallu, depending on the social setting in which the sari is being worn. The long end of the pallu hanging from the back of the shoulder is often intricately decorated. Some nivi styles are worn with the pallu draped from the back towards the front.
The Nivi saree was popularised through the paintings of Raja Ravi Verma. by modifying the south indian saree called mundum neriyathum. In one of his painting the Indian subcontinent was shown as a mother wearing a flowing nivi saree.
Lets see how the Nivi style has expanded across the subcontinent in the areas of Pakistan and Sri Lanka
In Pakistan, the wearing of saris has almost completely been replaced by the shalwar kameez for everyday wear, though it remains a popular dress for formal functions, especially weddings amongst the Pakistani elite, and is currently gaining interest. sari is sometimes worn as daily-wear, mostly in Karachi, by those elderly women who were used to wearing it in pre-partition India and by the some of the new generation who have re-introduced the interest of saris. The reason why the sari lost popularity in Pakistan, was due to it being viewed as a Hindu dress. Although she was seen wearing them Fatima Jinnah, the "Mother of the Nation", called the sari "unpatriotic" and Pervez Musharraf's wife stated that she never wears them.
Sri Lankan women wear saris in many styles. However, two ways of draping the sari are popular and tend to dominate; the Indian style (classic nivi drape) and the Kandyan style (or 'osaria' in Sinhalese). The Kandyan style is generally more popular in the hill country region of Kandy from which the style gets its name. Though local preferences play a role, most women decide on style depending on personal preference or what is perceived to be most flattering for their figure.
The traditional Kandyan (Osaria) style consists of a full blouse which covers the midriff completely, and is partially tucked in at the front as is seen in this 19th century portrait. However, modern intermingling of styles has led to most wearers baring the midriff. The final tail of the sari is neatly pleated rather than free-flowing. This is rather similar to the pleated rosette used in the 'Dravidian' style noted earlier in the article.Thats all from us in this series on Sarees from the subcontinent.
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Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Sarees in the Subcontinent
Continuing with the saree series in the subcontinent, Wee now focus our attention to the West Indian state of Maharashtra. Maharashtrian/Kache – This drape (front and back) is very similar to that of the male Maharashtrian dhoti. The center of the sari (held lengthwise) is placed at the center back, the ends are brought forward and tied securely, then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. When worn as a sari, an extra-long cloth is used and the ends are then passed up over the shoulders and the upper body. They are primarily worn by Brahmin women of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
Dravidian – sari drapes worn in Tamil Nadu; many feature a pinkosu, or pleated rosette, at the waist.
Madisaaru style – This drape is typical of Brahmin ladies from Tamil Nadu and Kerala
Kodagu style – This drape is confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka. In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari.
Gond – sari styles found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body. There is also the two-piece sari, or mundum neryathum, worn in Kerala. Usually made of unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and/or borders.
Finally the style to look out for- tribal styles – often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the breasts.
The nivi style is today's most popular sari style, and stay tuned to the FN blog for more updates on the Nivi style.
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Thursday, February 14, 2008
Subcontintental Sarees
Having seen a how the South Indian silk saree industry is, lets focus our attention to the saree market in general in the subcontinent. There are many style in wearing the saree, and the most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff. Ok, thats fine, but is the sari worn over something? Yes it is, The sari is usually worn over a petticoat (pavada/pavadai in the south, and shaya in eastern India), with a blouse known as a choli or ravika forming the upper garment. The choli has short sleeves and a low neck and is usually cropped, and as such is particularly well-suited for wear in the sultry South Asian summers. Cholis may be "backless" or of a halter neck style. Infact there is a very famous Indian number on “cholis” from an erstwhile hindi flick called Khalnayak. These saris across the subcontinent are usually more dressy with a lot of embellishments such as mirrors or embroidery and may be worn on special occasions.
However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form.
Some basic classifcations of Saris can be the following
Nivi – This style originally worn in Tamil Nadu; besides the modern nivi, there is also the kaccha nivi, where the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the waist at the back. This allows free movement while covering the legs. So if you happen to visit India sometime this summer, and are beach bumming at Mahabalipuram, do take some time off to visit Chennai, where you should be exposed to quite a few interesting designs.
North Indian/Gujarati – From the southern part of India to the western part, we find that the Gujrati style differs from the nivi only in the manner that the loose end is handled: in this style, the loose end is draped over the right shoulder rather than the left, and is also draped back-to-front rather than the other way around. Right now, we dont have pictures, but I will ask a few of my Indian friends to respond.
Thats it for this week. Keep cued in to FN and this blog for more updates on Indian saree classifications and some from Asia.
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Sunday, February 3, 2008
A Peek into Indian Silk
Today we talk about Indian Textiles and in that series comes the town of Kancheepuram. This town is also known as Silk City since the main profession of the people is weaving silk sarees. The silk weavers of Kanchi settled more than 400 years ago and have given it an enviable reputation as the producer of the best silk sarees in the country.
Its economy is entirely dependent on tourism and the well-established handloom industry. Kancheepuram has thousands of handlooms and skilled weavers that make its silk sarees one of the best in the entire world. About 75% of the city's population are associated with the handloom industry in some way.
Did you know that the Kanchipuram Silk Saree is hand-woven with dyed silk yarn with interleaved designs made with 'Zari' - a Silk thread twisted with a thin Silver wire and then gilded with pure Gold. The FN team found out that the Kanchi silk thread used for weaving Kanchipuram Sarees is made up of three single threads twisted together.Woven from pure mulberry silk and have an enviable reputation for texture, lustre, durability and finish. Hence, the Kanchipuram Silk Saree is usually stronger (and more expensive) than its counterparts from Arni, Dharmavaram, etc. However, the designs on the Saree itself are what brings it the fame. Given below are two pictures depicting the Kanchi Silk.
MYSORE is known for its silk. For over seven decades, Mysore silk, with its unique sheen and regal look, amazing drape, pure yarn and zari, has held its own among all other silk fabrics from India and abroad. Today, it is the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC) which holds aloft the State's supremacy in silk and silk products, from classy dress material, stoles, and furnishings to the most resplendent of saris.
Though the origins of the Mysore Silk Factory date back to 1912, organised production of fabric started only in 1932, after a small quantity of raw silk was tested in Switzerland for quality. Looms installed in the factory were also imported from Switzerland, and most of them have survived to this day.
In 1980, after it was handed over to the KSIC, the whole factory was modernised. The KSIC ensures that the raw silk goes through a complex production process, to meet the high quality standards expected of Mysore silk.That was a brief about 2 major silk hubs in India. Expect more about Indian textiles next week. Till then stay plugged on to FN
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Friday, February 1, 2008
Moving to the Subcontinent
We have so far previewed International Fashion Trends and have decided to focus our attention on the subcontinent India for its unique flavours in terms of fashion. Since the FN team has an India office, we decided to get some inputs from them,as to why India/subcontinent is doing very well in the textile/apparel space.
It is multicultural with a rich diversity of languages and traditions, and it is diversity that manifests itself with India being painted in different colours across the country, even though it stands unified. We will preview Indian fashion pertaining to Business analysis of Textile growth. The total Indian domestic textile market is about $25 billion, while its exports are worth $13 billion. The Indian textile industry has the hand spun woven sector and the capital intensive sophisticated mill sector.India is the largest producer of Jute and the second largest producer of Silk, while being the third largest producer of cotton.
a) Large raw material base - India has a rich raw material base, especially cotton which has seen improved productivity in the country under the Cotton Technology Mission.Apart from that a wide variety of cotton produced India, making India capable of catering to various segments of world trade. The Indian industry has ability to handle different materials - cotton, wool, silk and jute with equal skill
b) Positive developments in the Textile Policy . Reservation for small scale sector, especially key segments removed over last few years and Fiscal anomalies in terms of excise duty structure have been removed
c) Flexibility in production-Capabilities across the entire value chain within the country reduces lead time for production and reduces intermediate shipping time.Indian companies have flexibility and skilled manpower to handle small orders with complex designs.
d) Product development and design capabilities- Apart from this, if one has to look at world famous brand names that buy from India, one finds one of the best names in fashion queing up in India.The Top 10 buyers in India (Gap, Wal-Mart, Li & Fung, The Children’s Place, JC Penny, H&M, Federated, Fifth Avenue, Carrefour and Synergies India) account for 35% of total textiles sourced from India. Other major companies include El Corte, Ecko, Kellwood, VF Corporation, Tesco, Next, Karstadt-Quelle
Our next series of articles will talk about specific Examples of Indian Fashion.Still then stay plugged on to our Fashion Blog, and check www.fashion-networks.com
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
On Hair Styling
When I think of hair styles, my mind recalls Jennifer Aniston, more so the cute and bubbly Rachel Green of Friends. Why is that I like her hairstyle? I guess she had a first mover advantage in that long layered, straight but slightly curved hair. I guess after Jennifer’s look in the sitcom, there must have been many craving for that look,especially the ones who are looking to add volume to their look, incase they have dull and straight hair,which can be brought into an entirely new dimension with the Jennifer Aniston style.
Fashion experts feel that longer thin layers would look best for those looking to add some length, while short and chunky layers work better for those trying to add some body to their style. Those who do not have naturally straight hair can use a straightening iron to achieve the Jennifer Aniston look.
Fashion experts on http://www.ezinearticles.com/ , also opine that one more popular look that Jennifer Aniston loves to sport on televsion includes layers, but adds even more volume. They feel her shortest layers seem to hit just below the ear, and sweep over the forehead like long bangs. Jennifer Aniston even adds some curl with a large curling iron, which works effectively at adding body and volume. This is the kind of a look, that works best for those who may be insecure about the size of their forehead, since the long bangs work to draw the attention away from that area. This style also is great for those with a natural wave in their hair, since they won’t need a straightening iron in order to achieve this look.
That was one hairstyle the world loved to debate about, and we realise that there needs to be mediums that not only showcase content on hair styling but also open a platform where interaction between a fashion expert and some one who wants advice on fashion. This connect seemed to have materialised on Fashion Networks’s, discussion forums.
So as we sign off this week, we leave some food for thought with a discussion on the Fashion Networks forum
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Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Summer Fashion Trends
This is the last in series of introductory articles on fashion. We shall focus on sime summer fashion trends across the world. We all know that summer is a time when women everywhere show more skin and take more chances when it comes to fashion. So to say summer induces women to take a fresh look at fashion and experiment with a variety of clothing. We scoured over the internet and this is our take on the guide to some of the guide to the hottest summer fashion trends that most anyone can wear when the weather is warm:
Summer is when you think about beaches and babes, and what better way to start summer with a trip to the beach for some sunbathing. The first summer trend we will see would be Flirty Sundresses.If you want a look that screams femininity, then definitely stock your closet with a few flouncy, flirty sundresses. The idea sundress should fall slightly above the knee and be made from a light, breathable fabric. Try a fitted bodice with thin straps and a fuller skirt. For a cute retro look, try a red or black sundress with white polka dots. It is also observed that solid colors and floral prints are other classic sundress options. Generally it is also recommended for your feet to try strappy sandals, kitten heels or cute clear pumps.
The next trend is a bit here and there in terms of being called a pant because of its length and is known as Capri Pants Capri pants aren't really pants, but they're not shorts, either. These versatile bottoms end around the mid-calf area and look fantastic when paired with platform sandals or sexy high heels. Try casual cargo capris for a laid back look, or go fitted with classic denim. Depending on your choice of footwear and top, capri pants can take you from day to night in a snap!
Another handy beachwear is Satin Camisoles which these days, you can find tops that look just like lacy, satiny lingerie. Try a well-lined satin camisole top with skinny jeans, a few strands of beads and your favorite high heels for a trendy, sexy summer look. To avoid too much exposure, always go for camisole tops that have a built in bra and fit well.
Next up, whenever you saw baseball on television and thought it was all for the guys, its time to change that school of thought.Baseball caps aren't just for the guys! For a no-fuss style, throw on a cute trucker cap and pair of hoop earrings and you're all set. Military style caps are also all the rage, as are newsboy caps.
The next headwear rage? Fedoras! Jennifer Aniston, Kate Hudson and Ashlee Simpson have all been photographed rocking the fedora with casual tops and jeans.So what are you waiting for?You can find more personalized info on dressing trends at Fashion Networks, the one stop place in the fashion value chain. Fashion Networks wishes all its readers a very happy new year and invites your feedback on the blog so far.
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Friday, December 28, 2007
Fashion Trends in Fall

The first pick is of course Pencil Skirts .The pencil skirt easily qualifies as the all place wear, as it fits a look for any classroom, as much as as it does for a boardroom or even a bar room!
The second Fall fashion trend tip would be one of the most versatile fashion trends of Blazers with Jeans, that I happened to spot on a few reality shows in Asia. As the saying goes, Ladies First, we start the tip for women, where for the gentle feminine look, try a pastel blazer with a lace camisole in a matching shade underneath, paired with skinny faded jeans, high heels, and lots of gold or silver jewelry. For a classic look, try a sleek button down white blouse, black blazer, dark wash jeans and black boots. Finish the look with large gold hoops and a cute brooch. Men… we shall get back later next week, till then stay hooked on to the Fashion Networks Blog. There are some more fashion trends for fall that we would cover in the next article. So Stay hooked on to this Fashion Blog, as its Christmas Time at Fashion Networks.
This Blog will see a lot more variety of articles from next month, so make sure you get your regular dose of the Fashion Network Blog.
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Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Fast Fashion and How to Spot Trends?
So how do you know how long a trend will last? There may not be any sacrosanct rules, but from what one has observed in the fashion industry, here are some points to keep you in good stead.
- Generally speaking, most fashion trends stick around for 8-12 months. Some trends, usually the most understandable ones, last longer. For example, the personalization or initial craze started with Sarah Jessica Parker's "Carrie" necklace during season two of "Sex and the City" in 1998. The look saturated the mass market in the fall 2003 with initial handbags, sweaters -- you name it -- a full five years after it started. So as long as you have a clear differentiator in your times, you can dictate the trend, but otherwise saturation would hasten the natural killing of the trend.
- A well googled school of thought says that fashion cycles about every twenty years. Thus, the micro minis of the '80s have come back into favor now (as did the nameplate necklace mentioned above, which was hot then, too). So if you are betting on a trend, keep an eye on history to bail you out of trouble, whenever you are short of ideas.
- A huge part of deciding on how long a trend is viable depends on where in the fashion cycle you bought the trend. If you bought it as a knock-off or at a discount store, then you should count on it being in for just one or two seasons. Because the fashion industry often lumps together Spring and Summer, Fall and Winter, that gives you approximately six months of wear out of a look before it starts giving you an outdated look.
- Even though there is no hard-and-fast rule about how long a fashion trend will stick around, you can bet that the more-difficult-to-pull-off looks (Uggs, large cuff jeans, trucker hats) are just fads that will fade. Does that mean, you shouldn’t be buying them? No, don’t get too serious, as it doesn't mean you shouldn't have fun buying them, just know that they aren't looks that will be fresh next year, around this time. So get wiser and buy large cuffs jeans in that time of the year when the people love flaunting it.
- Apar from all the reasons listed there, have faith in economics, as sheer buying power can keep a trend on life support. Sometimes consumers love a look so much they just won't let it die. Capris, crops, tank tops and flip flops are all examples of former trends which actually became the staple diet of your wardrobe!
For more advice on fashion trends and networking with people who matter in the fashion industry, I recommend that you join Fashion Networks(www.fashion-networks.com) . Keep plugged on to the blog, till the next article.
Kartik Kannan, Fashion Evangelist at Fashion Networks
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Fashion trends, if you have noticed are referred to as fads, are disreputably fickle। The fashion industry is always on the hunt for what's new, what's hot. More than style and substance its what's new that seems to win. For every new, must-have handbag/sandals, there's another that gets tossed aside like, well, last year's trend॥and gets relegated to the attic.
The Fashion Cycle
- First, there's the emerging trend of products that are going to strike it big.You know this as when you see that great hat/dress/shoe on the runway, red carpet or music video. It's hitting you in the eye for attention and you make no bones about your natural pleasure towards the product.
- Next, comes what is called the emulation phase, where everyone wants a piece of the trend. You'll see it in fashion magazines, newspapers, internet and TV during this phase. This is basically a wave which every one wants to be a part of, to feel good. If the world is talking about Paris Hilton, then its just Hilton on page 3, thank god the stop press exists…. to jump into the wave at the right time.
- Finally, the trend becomes saturated in the market, usually at very low prices. With trendy items like a must-have designer handbag, the item becomes widely available as a knock-off. But you will be surprised to know that sales sometime surge during this phase depending upon the country. For instance, Harry Porter mania came a year late to the subcontinent than it did in the other parts of the world.
At the second phase a look is often available in high-priced designer collections. Only in the third phase, when a look makes it to the mass market, does it become affordable for most consumers.
Twenty or 30 years ago it might have taken a few years to make it from red carpet to mass market, but today's manufacturers have put the fashion cycle into hyperspeed। Sometimes a hot trend makes it into lower priced retail outlets in as little as a few months and as the argument starts, 20 or 30 years back, we relied on magazines to get us the trends, then the television media came along with fashion channels and changed the scenario. But an even bigger media wave is splashing a click away from where you are in the form of social media trends. The biggest advantage in such a networked web 2.0 world is for us to eaves drop on conversations that happen through out the web on fashion.
One such network were high quality fashion discussions happens is Fashion Networks, a global portal having diverse influential people come and pour out their views on the fashion industry. Stay hooked on to the Fashion Networks Blog to know more about this new business networking portal and for trends in the fashion place.
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Monday, October 29, 2007
Niche Business Networking comes of Age

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